Sorry for the inconvience about the Images missing..... Thanks to Photobucket.com and their new Policies. I have to Host all my picture else where now. This will take some time to fix.

FROZEN ROTORS

http://frozenrotors.com/


I was lucky enough to get the chance to write a Review and test out some Cryogenic Treated Rotors. First off I have to give out a huge thanks to www.FrozenRotors.com for letting me do this..

Ok so why Cryogenic Treated Rotors? Many of you might already know or have at least heard of Cryo'ed parts. It's been around for years, but many still don't know about the process. I first heard of Cryo'ed parts back in the early 2000's. I was big into Jeeping and many guys would have Axle shafts, U-Joints, Ring & Pinions etc... Frozen to increase their strength. Back then it never crossed my mind it could be used for rotors as well.

Instead of trying to explain it in my own words. This is a quote pulled from their website.

"How the Process Works   
Deep cryogenic processing permanently refines the grain structure of metals at the atomic level. Carbon particles precipitate as carbides into a lattice structure and fill in the microscopic voids. This creates metallurgically improved and stabilized rotors that have a denser, smoother surface. As a result, you reduce heat and wear on brake rotors and pads."

The results are said to be Increased tensile strength, better wear resistance, last up to 3x longer, are more predictable, provide consistent braking under all conditions, resist cracking, warping and fading. That right there is a lot of advantages. It seems like a no brainer really. 

I put larger wheels on my car and now I can see much of the rotor. That plain, ugly rotor. Nice wheels thou... Something needed to be done. So I got together with www.FrozenRotors.com and decided to give their Street Sport Cyro Rotors a try. Now I know many of you may not like drilled rotors. We have all seen those pictures of them cracking. Frozen Rotors has done a couple of things to help prevent that. One thing they have above others is of course the Cryogenic Process they do. The second is the way they drill their holes. Many companies just drill holes. That edge left can cause to much stress and premature pad wear. Other companies might try and fix that sharp edge and they countersink it. Problem with that their is still a small edge left. Which can still build up too much stress and cause the rotors to crack. Frozen Rotors uses a radius edge or whats called a Sinusoid Curve. This virtually eliminates the edge all together.  With no edge it builds up less stress and extends the pads life. With these differences I figured I would give their drilled and slotted rotors a try. Plus I love the look.

 I didn't need a brake change, but my brakes did seem to fad and I just didn't have the confidences in them as I would like. I'd love to have a Big Brake kit, but they are expensive and I don't Race. It's a bit overkill for my needs.


Frozen Rotors recommended Hawk Performance pads.  So I gave Hawk a call up. Must have been perfect timing,  because Hawk was about to release their 1st new Street Performance compound in 10yrs. The "Street5.0's"... So I got on the list and I'm one of the first few to get them early. As your reading this now. They have been released and can be found for sale at many sites now.

http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/high-performance-street-50

Lets get to the install...
How to Install on a 2010 Dodge Charger

1. First thing you need to do is. Jack the car up and get it on jack stands. Then removed the wheels.

2. Removing the Calipers. Both front and rear are removed in the same way. First remove the two bolts shown in the picture. These bolts hold the caliper housing to the caliper bracket. 

3. The caliper housing should just slide right out. If it's being stubborn. You can use a screw driver and pry it out. Once removed you will need to hang it from the Coil Springs above. You can use rope or a bungee cord works perfect.
4. Just pull the old pads off now and remove the two bolts shown below. These two bolts hold the caliper bracket.

5. Now it's time to remove the Rotor. If you have had your rotors replaced in the past. The rotors may just pull right off. If not you might still have 2 clips on the wheel studs holding the rotor. Grab a screw driver and pry them off. Then the rotor should pull off, but if again it's stuck. Get yourself a rubber mallet and hit the rotor between the Wheel Studs with one hand and pull on the rotor with the other. You may have to work one side then the other.
Now that's it for the fronts. The rears are the same way. Only difference is the rears have the emergency brake instead the hub of the rotors. So remember to not engage the Emergency brake. Everything else is the same. The rears will just look a little different when you pull the Rotors off. On my rears I had to get a wrench to hold the Nut between Bracket and the Housing from spinning. Then remove the two bolts for the caliper bracket.
Here is what rear looks like once the rotors are removed.
Since I was replacing my rotors and pads. I choose this to me a good time to paint my Calipers too. Pretty simple to do. I did learn a few things while I did this. Wished I would have bought a kit that's brushed on. Not due to over spray issues, but more towards just getting better results. If you plan on leaving the calipers attached to the brake lines. Brush kit is better suited. If you remove the calipers completely. Spray can kits would be perfect. The Spray just misses so much of the caliper. You'll see this in the pictures below. 

Prepping the calipers is easy to do, but it is a time consuming job. You will need a Wire Brush, scotch pad, brake cleaner and Air. If you have a Bench Grinder with a Wire wheel. You can use it to do a large part of the work.
Next you need to Tape everything off and paint.... Wait till the next day if you can to removed tape and start putting it all back together. I used Metalcast paint with a 2 step painting process. Basecoat and the Metalcast Blue. Looks Ok, not 100% happy with the way the paint turned out. Going to have to fix some spots.
Now its pretty much everything we just did, but in reverse.  Just a few things to note. If your pads didn't come with new Clips. I suggest to go ahead and buy them. Mine where $3.99 at the local parts store. 

There is a couple of places I like to grease during install. The clips were the Pads sit and the back of the pads were the Calipers make contact. It doesn't take much at all. 

Once you have the caliper bracket back on, greased and pads popped in place. Use a C-Clamp to press the calipers pistons back in. This will allow the clearance needed to clear the new thicker pads. Just double check all the bolts to make sure they are tight and your done. 
Put your wheels back on and torque to the correct pounds. If your not sure what it needs to be torqued to. Inside the Drivers door is a sticker that should have it listed. If not it will be in your manual. Once you have your wheels on and torqued correctly. It's time to test drive it. Before you take it out of park. Push on the brakes a few times and make sure the peddle feels right. For everyday normal driving. Frozen Rotors recommends just driving easy for the first 200 miles to break in and set the new pads. Avoid prolong pad to rotor contact. Specially after heavy braking. For High Performance break in. Please see my write up the Hawk Performance Street5.0 Pads.   

Here is a nice before and After Shot. Much better....