STEERING WHEEL SWAP

Disclaimer: This is a Custom modifaction to your Vehicles Steeering wheel. You the owner of your own Vehicle are 100% responsible  for your own Safety and well-being. Ramrod Reviews is not responsible for anything that happens during or after this Modifaction is done. 


In this article I will take you through the steps of how I swapped a 2015+ Dodge Steering Wheel into a 2005-2010 LX Platform. 

Before I got Started. I needed to find a 2015+ Steering Wheel. Buying a new one is just way to expensive. $600 and up for a new wheel.  BUT......A nice Used one works just as good.

The best source I found with good prices, fast shipping and stands behind their stuff. Is Pratt's Salvage in Arkansas. Pratt's as a Large Supply of 2015+ Dodge Chargers with not only Steering Wheels, but BR9 Brake Set ups and 22mm Rear Swaybars. Awesome affordable upgrades for many Gen1 LX Platforms. Give Adam Pratt a call at 1-800-348-6680.  Tell him Ramrod Reviews sent you for the Best prices. 


I wanted to upgrade not only the look, but the feel of my old outdated Steering Wheel and I was able to complete this in under 1hr. 


The Gen1 Steering Wheels have nevr been great to look at. They have always seemed they belonged in a Mini Van. No Style or shape to them. 
From this.....to THIS in 1hr
I'm only going to show the Basic Steps to get the New Steering Wheel Modifed to Fit. Along with the AirBag and Horn to work. Having the Steering Wheel Controls  work is a whole different article. That all depends on if you have factory controls now or not. Also the year of your Gen1 makes a difference. The good news is though with a little work you can have all the functions work. Even Paddle Shifters if you want. 


First thing I did was to do  find a comfortable setting to work in. I knew I would be inside my car with no Heat or AC working. 

TOOL's needwd:  Breaker Bar, 10mm Hex Bit, Rachet and 10mm Socket, Wire Stripers, Heat Shrink, File or Grinder and 2x Picks

Disconnect your Battery Ground and let Set for at least 20min.


While I was waiting my 20min. I went ahead and took my new Steering wheel and Started grinding the outer Diameter of the spline shaft. This has to be done to fit in the Clock Spring. Notice below the size differnce bwteen the old and new wheels. I started grinding a little on the new wheel, but before I got to far into it. I went back and started taking my old Steering wheel off.
There are two 10mm Bolts on each side of the Steereing Wheel. These hold the Airbag and Horn cover on. I removed these bolts and removed the Airbag.
Before I could remove the Aribag I had to disconnect the Airbag and Horn. 
I got my Breaker bar and 10m Hex Bit and broke loose the Steering wheel bolt. This was much easier with 2 people. One tp hold the wheel and one to break the bolt loose. After I removed the Bolt I disconnected the White Harness seen at the bottom of the Wheel.
Now I was able to remove my old wheel and expose the Clock Spring.  Now it's time to test fit the New Steering Wheel and some more grinding. After a few rounds of this I was able to make it slide right in place. You may notice the GAP that now between the Column and wheel. This Picture makes it look really bad, but it's not. I can only see it from outside and standing in the right spot. I don't think many will ever notice it. I did how ever find a nice fix for this. On E-Bay I found some 1in wide x 1/8in thick Rubber strips with adesive on one side. wrapping it around the Column with about 1/2in Hanging over the GAP. Will cover it nicely and no will ever notice.  EDIT: Learned The Hard way. Not to cut down the new Spine Shaft shorter to try and reduce the GAP. All that does is smash the clock spring. Which makes it hard to turn. 


Now I had to remove the Wiring Harness from  my Old Steering Wheel. I did this my unpluging my Cruise control. I also removed my Cruise Control Lever and kept it in a Safe place for later. 
I cut the Female Plug for my Horn off my Old  AirBag and left 2in of Wire with it. I then stripped the ends and crimped Female Disconnects on both wires. This worked perfect to plug into my new Horn connections on the 2015+ Airbag. 


Here below is how I did my Airbag. No need for any cutting or soldering iron. I grabbed to Pick tools and depressed the tabs on the Female plugs in the center of the Airbags. 
See here the Plugs just pop right now. Super easy.
Here is a picture of the 2010 Female Plugs in the 2016 Airbag. I noticed you just can't pop them in. You have to watch the prongs don't get bent, but it was super easy to do.
 I plugged in my new Modifed Wiring Harness. Snapped in the White connection to the Column. Plugged in the Horn and AirBags. Stuffed all the wires out of the way. There is a nice pocked at the bottom of the new Steeering that has plenty of room. Mine had a extra Steering Wheel Weight aka Damper. This made it a little harder. I ended up Stuffing the White connection in the Top lip of the Airbag. Then the AirBag just snaps in place. ALL DONE. I went back and connected my Battery back up. Started the Car and Turned the Wheel lock to lock a few times. Took it out for a test drive and it was smooth as butter. Felt great. It's always a WIN WIN when you can do a Mod you get to look at the whole time you drive. It also feels different in your Hands. Almost like a New car... The Biggest thing is how much it updates the look.
Here is all of Pratt's contact Info. Call today and get your new Steereing wheel. 

I also bought a full set of BR9 Caliper and Rotors from Pratt's off a 2016 Dodge Charger Pursuit. I will have a full write up  this in a couple of weeks.